Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Vacheron Constantin has chosen today to revive some of the finest moments in the quest for ultra-thinness. The Geneva-based manufacturer has indeed been closely involved in the epic milestones of this distinctive form of expertise, such as in the 1950s and 1960s when Vacheron Constantin introduced the world’s thinnest wristwatches.

Today, Vacheron Constantin is enriching its “Historiques” collection with two new creations directly inspired by its heritage, each lending a new and distinctively modern touch to one of two legendary calibres.

• Historique Ultra-fine 1955

Currently the world’s thinnest mechanical hand-wound watch measuring just 4.10 mm thickIt is equipped with the mechanical hand-wound 1003 movement, the thinnest in the world at just 1.64 mm thickrebuilt in 2010 – for its 55th anniversary – in 18-carat gold, and bearing the Hallmark of Geneva.

The Calibre 1003

Within this impressive legacy, one particular hand-wound movement continues to attract the attention of specialists and collectors. Work on its development began in 1952 in L’Ile (the building on the Rhone River ‘island’ that has housed Vacheron Constantin’s historical premises since 1875) and it was presented for the brand bicentenary celebrations in 1955 under the name Calibre 1003 considered as the most beautiful at this time.

 Its 9-lignes or 21.05 mm diameter and 1.64 mm thickness have made it the world’s smallest mechanical manual-winding movement on the market. By way of comparison, this micromechanical masterpiece composed of 120 parts is about the size of a small Swiss 20-centime coin.

This now legendary calibre (of which the excellence was to be confirmed by the subsequent orders placed by other great names in fine watchmaking) was used to equip three round watches that set a new record as the world’s thinnest watches measuring just 4.54 mm thick. These three timepieces have forever imprinted on people’s minds the image of the archetypal Vacheron Constantin watch: round, classic, ultra-thin and extremely reliable.

In 2010, Vacheron Constantin has chosen to pay tribute to this legendary calibre by housing it within a reinterpretation of one of those three watches: the “Historique Ultra-fine 1955”, currently the world’s thinnest hand-wound watch measuring just 4.10 mm thick to date.

• Historique Ultra-fine 1968

Equipped with the ultra-thin mechanical self-winding 1120 movementfeaturing a new decorated oscillating weight, and bearing the Hallmark of Geneva

The Calibre 1120

The development of Calibre 1120 began in 1966 and production began at the end of 1967. It too attracted the notice of specialists and collectors and was ordered by other great names in fine watchmaking. In 2010, Vacheron Constantin has also chosen to pay tribute to this equally legendary calibre by housing it within a reinterpretation of the vintage ultra-thin watches: the model now called “Historique Ultra-fine 1968”.

• Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronographe Perpetual Calendar

The PatrimonyTraditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar fromVacheron Constantin features a manual-winding mechanical movement (Calibre 1141 QP) visible through a pierced back and a transparent sapphire crystal.The 43-mm 18K pink gold case has been tested to a pressure of 3 bar, the equivalent of 30 metres. Other characteristics include hours, minutes, a small seconds at 9 o’clock, a column-wheel chronograph, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a centre chronograph hand, a perpetual calendar,moon phases, and a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The watch comes on a hand-stitched, square-scaled brown alligator leather strap with a pink gold folding clasp with a polished half Maltese cross.

• Quai de l’Ile

New line developed according to a concept of personalization, associated with advanced security techniques.

The customer can choose from three metals, two dials and two different finishes on the movements. While the cushion-shaped case allows for an infinite number of combinations, Vacheron Constantin is offering almost 400 combinations for this year’s launching.

More in the HH Journal

The Genevan artist Roger Pfund, who designed Switzerland’s banknotes and its current passport, took inspiration from state-of-the-art security techniques to imagine a series of invisible markings that will make the Quai de l’Ile virtually impossible to copy. Implemented by Orell Füssli Security Printing, the specialist in the field, the security features of the Quai de l’Ile watch are especially concentrated on the dial.

More in the HH Magazine

• Malte Tourbillon Regulator

Movement
1790 R, manual-winding mechanical
Tonneau shaped tourbillon regulator movement,
designed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Height of movement6.10 mm
Width of movement26.90 mm
Length of movement28.50 mm
Jewelling27 rubies
Frequency18’000 vibrations/hour
Power reserveapproximately 40 hours

Indications
Hours and minutes on regulator display
Small second on tourbillon cage

Case
Platinum 950 or 18K 5N pink gold
39.90 mm x 49.90 mm
Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance 3 Atm equivalent to a depth of 30 metres

Dial
18K gold
Five different kinds of finishing for optimal reading: snailed, guilloched, opaline, vertical satin-finishing and circular satin-finishing

Strap
Dark-blue or brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish,
Square-scaled alligator leather

Clasp
Platinum 950 or 5N 18K pink gold folding clasp
Half Maltese cross

• Overseas Dual Time

Movement
1222 SC, Self-winding mechanical
Anti-magnetic protection
Height of movement, 4.90 mm
Diameter of movement, 26.60 mm
Jewelling 34 rubies
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserveApproximately 40 hours

Indications
Hours, minutes, central seconds
Power reserve
2nd time zone with day / night indicator
Date hand

Case
18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold
Solid with stamped with « Overseas » medallion, secured with screws
Set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.90 ct)
Water-resistance 15 ATM, equivalent to a depth of 150 metres

Dial
Matt white varnish
Slate day / night indication
10 applied hour-markers in 18K 5N pink gold with white luminescent strip

Strap
White hand-stitched, square-scaled alligator leather
Delivered with a second strap in white vulcarbonized rubber.

Clasp
18K white gold or 5N 18K pink gold triple-blade, double-safety folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross

• Métiers d’Art “Les Masques”

The Japan mask demanded a level of skill beyond most engraving experts today. First, the mask’s volumes were reproduced three-dimensionally, then transferred to the miniature using the most advanced laser techniques. The next step was to delicately enhance the tiniest details through the art of engraving, as can be seen in the hair of Buddha, each curl of which is drawn as a tiny spiral in line-engraving. The softness of the facial features is brought out by flame-gilding, while the signs of aging on the mask – an irreversible effect of time – have been delicately reproduced by hand so as to capture the essence of the original.

• Mask China

Calibre
VC 2460 G4, self-winding mechanical
Stamped Poinçon de Genève
Thickness of movement 3.60 mm; 6.05 mm with additional plate
Diameter of movement 25.60 mm, or 11½ lignes
Jewelling 27 rubies
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve over 40 hours

Indications and functions
Displayed in 4 windows on the case rim:

• hours with dragging disc

• minutes with dragging disc

• day with semi-jumping disc

• date with semi-jumping disc

Case
18K yellow gold
Diameter 40 mm with sapphire crystal back
Water-resistance pressure at 3 atm, equivalent to 30 metres

Dial
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal

Strap
Alligator mississipiensis, hand-stitched
High shiny finish, dark brown

Clasp
18K gold or platinum 950 foldind clasp
Half Maltese Cross

• Chronomètre Royal 1907

Limited series of 100, issued in 2007 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Chronomètre Royal.

Calibre
2460 SCC, automatic mechanical
Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
COSC-certified
Movement thickness 3.60 mm
Movement diameter 25.60 mm (11 ½ lignes)
Power reserve over 40 hours
Jewelling 27 rubies
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour

Dial
White Grand Feu enamel – 18-carat gold
11 Arabic numerals, black enamelled, the figure 12 in burgundy red.

Indications
Central hours, minutes and seconds

Case
18-carat pink gold, 39 mm in diameter
Water-resistance tested to a pressure of 3 atm, equivalent to a depth of 30 metres

Strap
Hand-sewn brown alligator leather

Clasp
Classic 18-carat pink gold buckle
Polished half-Maltese Cross

• Patrimony contemporaine day-date bi-rétrograde

Movement
2460 R31R7, automatic mechanical
Stamped with the Poinçon de Genève
Height of movement 5.40 mm
Diameter of movement 25.60 mm (11½ lignes)
Jewels 27 rubies
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve approx. 43 hours

Indications

• hours

• minutes

• date

• day with flyback hands

Case
18 K pink gold 5N
42.50 mm in diameter
Sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating on one side, convex
Water–resistance pressure of 3 atm, equivalent to 30 metres

Dial
Silver opaline, 48 « pearl » external minute-track,
Polished Maltese cross effet miroir

Strap
Brown Mississipiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle finish

Clasp
Folding clasp in 18K pink gold 5N.
Half Maltese cross

• Patrimony Traditionnelle « Calibre 2755 »

Calibre
2755, manual-winding mechanical
Stamped with the Geneva hallmark
Thickness of movement 7.90 mm
Diameter of movement 33.30 mm / 13 lignes
Jewelling 40 rubies
Frequency 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve approximately 58 hours

Indications

• Minute repeater

• Tourbillon

• Hours, minutes, seconds on tourbillon

• Perpetual calendar

• Power reserve on the back

Case
5N 18K pink gold
44 mm in diameter
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on one side, domed
Open-worked case, screwed
Water-resistance: none

Dial
Silvered opaline, fine snailed counters with diamond fillets
Black-painted minute-track

Strap
Brown, hand-stitched alligator mississipiensis

Clasp
5N 18K pink gold folding clasp
Half Maltese Cross

• Patrimony traditionnelle Quantième Perpétuel Squelette

Calibre
1120 QPSQ, self-winding mechanical
Stamped with the Geneva hallmark
Thickness of movement 4.05 mm
Diameter of movement 28 mm / 12 1/2 lignes
Jewelling 36 rubies
Frequency 19,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve approximately 40 hours

Indications

• Hours, minutes

• Perpetual calendar

• Moon phase

Case
Platinum 950 or 5N 18K pink gold
39 mm in diameter
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on one side, domed
Open-worked case, screwed
Water-resistance 3 ATM / 30 metres

Bracelet
Dark-blue or Brown, hand-stitched alligator mississipiensis

Clasp
Platinum 950 or 5N 18K pink gold classic buckle
Half Maltese Cross