Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Other distinctive signs

• Swiss Made
• Swiss Official Chronometer Certification
• Geneva Quality Hallmark
• Fleurier Quality Foundation certification
• Chronofiable

Swiss Made

“Swiss Made”

Synonymous with quality and reliability, the “Swiss Made” label is a much sought-after label in watchmaking circles. The Federal ordinance regulating its use actually leaves some room for manoeuvre, which enables some watches to be presented as “Swiss,” when they are actually not 100% so.

The “Swiss” label has long enjoyed great prestige throughout the world, as far as watch-making is concerned. However, it was not until 1971 that a first definition was introduced to define the conditions for its use: the Ordinance of 23rd December 1971. This provided that all watches containing a movement assembled in Switzerland and fitted to the watch in Switzerland or abroad could carry the label “Swiss Made”. However, these conditions were considered too broad and were accordingly modified on 27th May 1992 and, since 1st July 1992, the date they came into force, the more restrictive provisions of Article 1 of the Ordinance apply. A watch is considered Swiss if:

• the movement is Swiss
• the movement is fitted in Switzerland, and if
• the final manufacturing control takes place in Switzerland

According to Article 2, para. 1, a movement is considered Swiss if:

• it is assembled in Switzerland
• controlled by the manufacturer in Switzerland and
• at least 50% of the value of its components are produced in Switzerland, not including the assembly costs.

So the ordinance is not concerned about the origin of the other components - dial, hands, case and bracelet. The Swiss character of the watch depends above all on the work performed in Switzerland, even if certain foreign components are used. This definition of “Swiss Made” does not enjoy unanimous support within the profession. Many regret that brands whose components are all, or almost all, made in Switzerland (this is generally the case for the top-end of the market, especially the legitimate full-fledged Manufactures), should be treated in the same way as those who respect only the legal minimum. Another controversial aspect is the famous 50% of the Article 2 para.1. How should these be calculated? How can they be controlled? Paragraph 2 spells out certain rules, but considering the differences in costs for materials and labour between Switzerland and abroad, can one really establish whether or not whether the “majority” of a movement is made in Switzerland? Some are demanding even stricter prescriptions, which should also include the watch exterior components.