The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar takes a not-so-obvious approach to its namesake complication.
Launch Year
2005
Functions
hours, minutes, small seconds, date-month perpetual calendar, power-reserve indicator, leap-year cycle indicator on the back
Movement
mechanical manual-winding, 7-day power reserve
Distinctive features
pink or white gold case, 40.8mm diameter, silver-toned dial, sapphire caseback
Relaunched in the early 2000s, the H. Moser & Cie. brand, named after a Schaffhausen-born watchmaker who distinguished himself not only within his profession but also by contributing to the development of his native region, presented its first contemporary watch at the end of 2005 – to mark the 200th anniversary of its founder’s birth. The Moser Perpetual 1, since renamed the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, created quite a stir due to the paradoxical construction of its prestigious complication. It was a world-first.
The power reserve and date displays are very much in evidence on what is a resolutely understated dial bearing baton-shaped hour-markers and leaf-shaped hands. Less obvious is the small central arrow, performing one rotation per year, which takes over the 12-hour indication to show the 12 months. That this is a perpetual calendar - one of the most sophisticated complications that takes account of variable month lengths including for leap years - is even less apparent as the indicator for this four-year cycle appears on the back.
Even more impressively, this calendar is endowed with particularly ingenious innovative systems designed to facilitate both reading and use. The large date, alternately displayed by two superimposed disks, jumps directly and swiftly from the last day of the month to the first of the next, without transitioning through any potential intermediate date(s). In addition to this ‘flash calendar’, a double pull crown enables accurate positioning to adjust the time and that of the calendar. The latter operation can be effected either forwards or backwards and at any time. The rare apparent simplicity of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar conceals an equally rare degree of complexity.
A brand best-seller, this model of elegance is interpreted through a variety of case metals and dial finishes. The collection naturally comprises fumé dials, a historic specialty of H. Moser & Cie. Created by means of a lengthy and meticulous process in various colors – including the brand-signature shade of grey –, they feature an extremely subtle sunburst effect that gradually fades towards the dial rim.
An unconditional advocate of aesthetic purity, H. Moser & Cie. went even further with the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity presented in 2017. Framed by a larger case with more dynamic curves, the dial is supremely minimalist, the logo has vanished and the number of markings has been reduced to an absolute minimum. A new iteration appeared in 2022 with a 42mm white gold case and Funky Blue dial with the brand logo in transparent lacquer.
Key Characteristics
- Perpetual calendar with an exceptionally clean dial
- Patented flash calendar and double pull crown