“Supersized” watches haven’t disappeared entirely. Far from it. Certain models lend themselves beautifully to larger diameters. The Hublot Big Bang Reloaded (44mm), Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton (45mm), Panerai Luminor Vintage (47mm) and Audemars Piguet Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph (43 mm) are all examples. Taking away millimetres from any of these models would undermine their very identity: that of watches built for wide-open spaces, ready to take on the world.

Putting this new strategy to the test, with the exception of jewellery watches, brands have downscaled their women’s ranges (whether mirroring men’s collections or designed specifically). Suddenly, size does matter. A. Lange & Söhne presents its Saxonia Annual Calendar, with a new automatic movement, in a 36mm diameter. Angelus fits its Tinkler 1958 quarter repeater in a 38mm case… the same diameter as the new Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet. Meanwhile, Bulgari has rethought its Octo Finissimo models, including the minute repeater, in a smaller 37mm size. Credor (Seiko’s high-end brand, launched in 1974) has released its Goldfeather and Locomotive novelties in 37mm and 38mm executions. IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Automatic Le Petit Prince measures 36mm across, while the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date comes in at 38mm. In a slight departure, Vacheron Constantin presents its Overseas Automatic Ultra-Thin with salmon dial in a 39mm platinum case.

Leaning heavily into this trend, mini watches are now firmly established within the horological landscape, and not just gem-set designs. Multiple models dip below the 30mm bar, including the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini (23mm), Cartier’s Baignoire (24.6 x 19.3mm), the Hampton from Baume & Mercier (28 x 17.70mm), the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 28mm, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Two Hands (28mm or 34mm), Chanel’s J12 28mm and the Piaget Sixtie (29mm). Even the likes of Roger Dubuis and Hublot, brands typically associated with extra-large watches, are capitalising on the trend with, respectively, 36mm and 33mm women’s models. Smaller dimensions are now a factor in watch design and, like any other consideration, an opportunity waiting to be explored.