Analogue

An analogue watch displays time by means of hands and a dial (as opposed to digital or alphanumerical).

Balance cock (modern)

A bridge with a lug anchored to a stud. An index (or regulator) passes over a scale indicating Fast Slow in English, Avance Retard in French.

Calibrated

Describes a number of identical step-cut stones with the same, usually square, shape which will be closely set in adjacent rows.

Die

A tempered steel tool with sharp edges for cutting and shaping various parts. A stamping press uses a die set. Watchmakers use small cylindrical dies in tempered steel whose end may or may...

Electroplating

A plating technique using electrodeposition.

Fancy cut

Fancy cut stones are cut in any form other than a brilliant cut. Some fancy cuts include the heart, oval, marquise, navette, kite, and triangle.

Gear train

A system for transmitting power and motion through toothed wheels. In a watch, the train comprises a wheel whose teeth mesh with a pinion's leaves.

Hatch

An opening in the case allowing easy access to one of the watch's internal components, usually the battery.

Integrated circuit

A group of electronic components and their connections, performing one or more functions. Integrated circuits for watches measure just a few square millimetres.

Karrusel

A device similar to the tourbillon, the difference being that the cage is driven by the third wheel. Invented by Bonnicksen, a Danish watchmaker established in London.See complication.

Latitude

An angular distance that gives the location of a place north or south of the Earth's equator.

Mastership

The position held by a master. In Switzerland, a master must take an exam and have several years' experience as a watchmaker-repairer. In Geneva, the first masterships date back to...

Niello

An enamel-like alloy of lead, copper, silver, sulphur and sal ammoniac (ammonium chloride). Niello paste is applied over incised gold or silver then fired in the enamellist's furnace. Excess...

Oscillating pinion

The oscillating pinion, which comprises a mobile stem and two pinions, allows the chronograph to function very efficiently by replacing the two large wheels of the anterior movements. A coupling...

Painting on enamel

A speciality of Limoges in the sixteenth century and perfected by Jean Toutin in around 1624, this style of painting uses vitrifiable colours.A gold or copper plate is coated with...

Quartz oscillator

The regulating organ in a quartz clock or watch.

Regulating parts

The regulating organ (balance and spring) with the escapement.

Skeleton

A movement whose plate and bridges have been cut away to expose the wheels, leaving only the substance which the watch needs to function. The movement is placed between two sapphire crystals to be...

Time zone

In order to standardise time measurement in each country, since 1883 the Earth has been divided into twenty-four time zones, the first of which is intersected by the Greenwich meridian,...

Universal Time (UT)

Since 1972, a continuation of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) which is mean solar time at the Greenwich meridian. Universal Time (UT) is a measurement of time based on the Earth's...

Vagues de Genève

Synonym of Côtes de Genève. A decoration of undulating lines, like waves, frequently used to embellish superior quality movements.

Wheel

A circular component that rotates around an axis and whose function is to transmit power or motion.

Year

A four-digit indication of the current year that changes automatically at midnight on December 31st.

Zodiac

At the heart of countless legends and beliefs, since ancient times precious stones have had symbolic value. From the Jews to the Egyptians, each culture and religion has given a different meaning...