The Quirky Backstory. The Quirky Backstory. The Quirky Backstory. The Quirky Backstory. The Quirky Backstory
PVD-Coated Watches. PVD-Coated Watches. PVD-Coated Watches. PVD-Coated Watches
21 July 2026
The Quirky Backstory Of PVD-Coated Watches
Before black ceramic, carbon cases and stealthy DLC coatings, there was PVD.
But here is the fun part: some of the most memorable black PVD watches were not always born that way. In the 1970s, black-coated watches could be official references, but they could also be customised after purchase. Less product strategy, more personal statement.
The best example? Karl Lagerfeld's Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST. Originally a steel Royal Oak, it was later coated in black PVD, turning Gérald Genta's already radical design into something even sharper. For Lagerfeld, who built an entire visual language around black, white, sunglasses, high collars and graphic contrast, the watch became more than an accessory. It looked like part of the uniform.
And PVD did not belong to just one world. On a Piaget Polo ref. 761C701, it could bring a graphic edge to an ultra-luxury bracelet watch.
On a Heuer Carrera ref. 110.571, it pushed the chronograph into darker, sportier territory. On the Ulysse Nardin ref. 83.11.01 Diver's Compass, made in the 1990s, the black PVD-coated case felt more like a piece of technical gear than a precious object.
Early PVD coatings were not invincible. They could scratch, fade and reveal the metal underneath. But on vintage pieces, that fragility is now part of the charm.
