Named Première, not only because the brand had never yet ventured into this territory, but also to evoke first-class travel and the première d’atelier (head seamstress) in the world of haute couture, the founding watch of Chanel Horlogerie is based on pure, essential designs – an embodiment of the timeless femininity advocated by Gabrielle Chanel. The makeover it received in 2013 merely enhanced its elegance. The octagonal case is fitted with a beautifully cut sapphire crystal that accentuates the architectural nature of this model. The time is displayed with understated elegance, by means of two baton-shaped hands that sweep generally white or black dials that leave no room for the superfluous – not even numerals or hour-markers. Most of the bracelets evoke the supple adjustable chain-link strap of the 2.55 quilted handbag, launched in February 1955.

These bracelets, and specifically their construction, distinguish the three separate lines within the collection. On the Première Chaîne, the chain is composed of wide-open round links that create a striking contrast with the case. On the Première Rock, a single or double row of links is entwined with leather. For the Première Mini, Chanel has designed a tapering solid-link chain that combines metal with high-tech ceramic. Like the other versions, it can be wrapped several times around the wrist.