UR-230 Polaris

When in 2024 Urwerk unveiled its UR-230 Eagle in Carbon CPT® it also debuted a new movement featuring shock-absorbing turbines. A year later, the Geneva-based brand returns with the UR-230 Polaris in a 35-piece limited edition. Building on the same technical foundations, this new release uses a cutting-edge ceramic-based composite for the case that already has applications in aeronautics and medtech. Its polymer base is interwoven with sheets of ceramic and fibreglass plies. The resin that encapsulates the fibre-based sheets is coloured white while the fibreglass is a light silver. After machining, the fibres appear as curves to produce a moiré effect, identical to carbon fibre. Inside this hull sits the UR-7.30 movement that drives the watch’s distinctive wandering hours display. A three-armed carrousel carries the hour cubes that rotate across a 120-degree arc. At each change of hour, the retrograde minute hand snaps back to its starting position to seamlessly connect to the next hour. Urwerk equips this movement with a turbine system that absorbs shocks and also regulates air flow to optimise the automatic winding mechanism. This “Air Brake” lets the wearer adjust the rotor’s winding power based on their level of activity, by rotating a knob on the back of the watch. There is also the option to switch to manual winding via a second knob that disengages the rotor.