Launched in 1926, the Oyster collection was divided into two categories from 1945 onwards, with a distinction between classic models and “professional” watches such as the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master. The latter appeared in 1955 and was intended for pilots. In an age when transcontinental flights were developing, it made sense to offer a dual-time watch that enabled simultaneous readings of the time in the departure and destination countries. The GMT-Master became the official watch of several airlines including Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am. By its very nature, it would subsequently appeal to globetrotters the world over, whether professionals or not. Consistently recognisable by its 24-hour graduated rotating bezel swept by an arrow-tipped hand, it was equipped with crown guards in 1956. The bezel colours earned it nicknames such as Pepsi for the red and blue version, Coke for the red and black option, or Espresso for the all-black iteration. It evolved in step with technical progress made by Rolex. The first evolution, the GMT-Master II which launched in the early 1980s, was essentially distinguished by the additional functionality of a fast local time adjustment system, in which the hour is set independently of the minutes and seconds. It provided an alternative to the standard model that remained in production until the late 1990s. The contemporary collection, composed exclusively of GMT-Master II models, dates from 2005. This state-of-the-art watch is endowed with equally cutting-edge brand signature attributes. In addition to its ultra-high-performance self-winding movement, the 2005 Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II saw the debut of the Cerachrom bezel. The latter is distinguished by an extremely hard ceramic disk, almost impervious to scratches, with moulded graduations highlighted in gold or platinum. This bezel also features optimised rotation in hourly increments, enabling fast and accurate transitions to new time zones. In addition, the Oyster case is equipped with Triplock crown seals, an Oyster bracelet – the collection’s most prevalent flat-link model – as well as an Oysterlock safety clasp and an Easylink comfort extension. Available in a single 40mm size in gold, steel or gold and steel, with a two-tone bezel in red, blue, green or brown with black, on an Oyster or a Jubilee bracelet, with versions for left-handers and right-handers, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is powered by the new-generation Calibre 3285 (protected by ten patents). This cosmopolitan watch maintains the geometrical hour-marker design and the differentiated style of the four hands that has characterised it right from the start.

• Oyster Perpetual “professional” watch created in 1955 for pilots • 24-hour rotating bezel and arrow-tipped hand for a dual-time display