A restorer of antique watches and clocks, then a teacher at the WOSTEP watchmaking school, Finnish-born watchmaker Kari Voutilainen was already a well-respected specialist of traditional horology when he created his “Horlogerie d’Art” atelier in Switzerland’s Val-de-Travers region in 2001. Since then, he has appealed to the most discerning connoisseurs by revisiting the finest aspects of watchmaking history. His classically inspired watches nonetheless house innovations that are duly designed to promote progress. Witness the Vingt-8 launched in 2011, which featured the first movement to be almost entirely developed and produced in-house: Calibre 28. This Calibre, developed in 2008 – hence its name – is distinguished by an oversized sprung balance, like those used to regulate pocket watches, and a two-wheel escapement which, although inspired by the so-called ‘natural’ escapement invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet, has been completely rethought. This configuration represented a first, resulting in greater precision and longevity, as well as less energy consumption – all sought-after properties in watchmaking. The movement benefits from a customized 3D setting and naturally impeccable hand finishing. The latter is confirmed at first glance by the particularly elegant, tapering, mirror-polished stainless steel balance bridge, enabling a clear view of the original elements in this Kari Voutilainen creation. It comes in the brand’s iconic round case, recognisable by its vintage-style drop-shaped lugs. The time is displayed by personalised Breguet-type hands – two-tone with a large open tip – on dials that give pride of place to the art of guilloché. Artisans at the in-house atelier operate historical rose engines to create compositions based on traditional or innovative motifs, enhanced with different finishes. In addition to the variations offered within the regular collection, clients can also draw upon the in-house artistic skills to create a one-of-a-kind model in accordance with their personal preferences. The Vingt-8 also lends itself to the creation of exceptional works of art such as those by the Japanese lacquer studio Unryan, while its movement welcomes more complicated interpretations such as the Vingt-8R with power reserve, launched in 2013, the Vingt-8 ISO with its unusual read-off, presented in 2017, or the 28 Ti from 2019; a watch with no dial that affords a view deep into the beautifully finished movement. Also that year, Kari Voutilainen unveiled a Vingt-8 in a more classic 37mm diameter, paired with a red guilloché dial.

• First in-house movement, exclusive double escapement • Classically inspired design, traditionally hand-guilloché dials