The resurgence of interest in mechanical watches fostered a new-found status for these instruments that could not be explained (or justified) solely by their functional aspect, however essential. The codes of horology have been transformed by notions of aesthetics and design, by unconventional movement architectures and by innovations in materials, to the point that the watch’s mechanism has evolved from a purely functional object to an object that stirs emotion and therefore could no longer remain hidden from view. Original and imaginative solutions had to be found that would show off the heart and pride of the profession, namely the capacity to conceive of and build these complex mechanisms, wrapped in the artisanal skills which allay the fact that modern watchmaking is first and foremost an industry populated by computer numerical controlled (CNC) machines and computer-aided design (CAD). By revealing the mechanisms that set pulses racing, brands are able to show off the results of their efforts and hard work in all their splendour.

This was certainly the case at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, where almost half of the sixty exhibiting brands presented models designed to show all or part of their mechanisms. They are a vantage point from which to fully appreciate the technique of skeletonisation, a skill that warms the hearts of watch aficionados. Some brands prefer to suggest rather than reveal all, leaving the imagination to fill in the blanks. Patek Philippe surprised with a Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Ref. 6159G-001 that merely hints at what lies within. Cased in white gold, this grand complication “exudes an original and contemporary style, featuring a dial in grey metallised sapphire crystal that reveals the watch's mechanical heart.” Hermès adopted the same almost-but-not-quite transparency for its new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. A fresh interpretation of the 2011 model, the openworked dial allows a glimpse of the exclusive module of the in-house H1837 calibre, which is also visible through the display back. At Panerai, the sapphire dial of the Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT in platinum draws the eye into the mechanism without divulging all its secrets.

Sapphire, which doesn’t lend itself easily to machining, takes transparency to the next level, as demonstrated by Chanel’s J12 Bleu X-Ray, Cyrus’s Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Sapphire Blue as well as the breathtaking Master of Sapphire set that Hublot presented for the twentieth anniversary of its Big Bang. Five versions of the Big Bang MECA-10 in five different coloured sapphires bring into view the full complexity of this movement with a ten-day power reserve.

In this context, the skeleton watch belongs to either of two philosophies. Some skeleton models are developed as part of an established collection for individuals who clearly have an appreciation of horological mechanisms but not necessarily a collector’s mindset. Others are intended to draw attention to mechanisms that warrant closer examination for the intrinsic quality of their complexity. Bell & Ross and its BR-03 Skeleton, the Charriol Navigator Cruise Skeleton Calibre 41 and the Raymond Weil Freelancer Cushion Skeleton are all timely arrivals in the first category. As for the second, there are no shortage of candidates. An openworked dial? Ferdinand Berthoud and its tenth anniversary Chronomètre FB 3SPC ticks that box, as does the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Formula 1. An open architecture? Take a look at Artya and its Wavy Titanium Mirror, not forgetting Hautlence and its Linear Serie 3, HYT and its S1 or Ulysse Nardin with its ultra-light Diver [Air].

While sports watch fans have plenty to keep them happy, in particular at Norqain, with its Wild One, or IWC Schaffhausen whose Big Pilot’s Tourbillon Skeleton is engineered to withstand every knock and shock, ultimate transparency is once again to be found among the grand complications. This is a register in which Jaeger-LeCoultre excels, as the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater reminds us. Vacheron Constantin stands out for the trio of Traditionnelle Openface that marks its 270th anniversary. For another anniversary, its thirtieth, Roger Dubuis has unveiled the Excalibur Grande Complication which satisfies the strict aesthetic and technical criteria of the Poinçon de Genève: a distinction shared with the Vacheron Constantin Openface models. However, the last word must go to Piaget for its Altiplano Skeleton High Jewellery Métiers d’Art, marrying transparency with the virtues of beauty.