Not every engineer engaged in a breakthrough project was Japanese. In Switzerland, ETA developed the calibre for the Delirium, which it supplied to four brands: Longines for the Delirium Feuille d’Or, Omega for the Dinosaure (1.8mm thick), Eterna for the Espada Quartz, and Concord for the Delirium (2mm thick). These were expensive watches (in 1978 the movement alone cost $4,500) and also the thinnest ever, attained by doing away with the mainplate and attaching components directly to the caseback. Sound familiar? Indeed, by the early 1980s another revolution was brewing in ETA’s Swiss offices where director Ernst Thomke, assisted by engineers Jacques Müller and Elmar Mock, were working on an affordable quartz watch. In order to reduce cost, they reprised the Delirium’s construction and gave the new watch a plastic case, manufactured by precision injection-moulding (a technique mastered since the Astron). In 1983 a pilot series launched in the United States. Named Swatch Quartz and given reference number GB101, it was the start of an epic adventure that is now part of Swiss watchmaking history. And for good reason: by the time of its 30th anniversary in 2013, more than 400 million Swatch watches had been sold…
Calm reigned in the valleys of the Swiss Jura as watchmakers went about their business, oblivious to the storm that was brewing thousands of miles away, soon to bring about the demise of mechanical watchmaking. Engineers in the 1970s were hit full on by a “tsunami” that originated with one man - Tsuneya Nakamura, managing director of Seiko since 1963 - and his determination to be first to master quartz technology. In less than three years, the watchmaking world was transformed by the likes of Ulysse Nardin and others which, as early as 1965, submitted prototype quartz watches to Neuchâtel Observatory for timing trials. Their precision could easily have left mechanical watches by the wayside. Instead, this new technology failed to muster interest beyond purely scientific. Even when Seiko, a Japanese firm established in 1881 yet totally unknown to European audiences, presented its version in 1966, the Swiss carried on unperturbed. As far as anyone could see, including those in the frontline of research such as Girard-Perregaux, Ulysse Nardin and the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH), there was no way forward beyond the prototype stage. Quartz had ground to a halt.