While the vast majority of enthusiasts pay attention to the movement that powers their watch, it’s not only what is beneath the dial that counts. The dial itself, the “face” of the watch, must also appeal and not simply for the layout of the various functions. While the classic black, white or blue dial continues to account for around half of current production, the other half is wide open to alternatives that are steadily gaining ground. 

Brands first ventured into this terrain with interchangeable straps, now a staple of many collections. The possibility to swap metal for fabric, recycled materials for leather (or vice versa), and most of all the vast palette of shades on offer, confirmed that watch buyers like to be given choice. Clothes are one way we change our image and the same holds true of the watch’s outer persona. Equipping the same model with different dials creates the impression of a completely new object, adds depth to a collection and, at the same time, extends its appeal to a broader audience. Genderless models are also driving the trend.

Nor is Piaget alone in its explorations of mineral matters. Hot on its heels are Bulgari, Zenith, Chopard and, most noticeably, H. Moser & Cie., which describes its stone dials as “more fun, more pop, more unexpected than ever. Fine stones and coral essences adorn the dials of the new Endeavour Pop collection in an explosion of colour. Minimalism finds a new dimension, where the material itself becomes the ultimate expression of design.”

An explosion of colour, indeed. Colourful dials were everywhere to be seen at the Geneva fair. Soft pastels for Bell & Ross, Hublot, Oris and Parmigiani. Sandy shades for Baume & Mercier and Genus. Vivid red at Hublot, Rolex, Tudor and TAG Heuer. Eight different colours for Nomos’s Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer. Green at Chopard, Hysek and Norqain, neon yellow at Gerald Charles, chocolate for A. Lange & Söhne, rosy hues at Czapek… In the words of Nomos, describing its limited-edition Worldtimer, it’s all about finding the watch that represents your world. One that recalls “a favourite place, family around the world or a dream destination.” The colours of life.

Making its debut, Rolex’s Land-Dweller sports a dial with a raised pattern of stylised honeycomb cells. As the brand explains, “its creation calls on traditional craftsmanship and high-technology methods, all mastered in-house. Time-honoured techniques are employed for the dial surface finishings: a fine satin finish for the intense white dial and a sunray finish on the ice blue version. The honeycomb structure is cut with a femtosecond laser, which is also used to etch the delicate lines in the grooves between each cell.” Demonstrating similar attention to detail, the engraved horizontal waves on the dial of Speake Marin’s Golden Ripples are satin-finished and varnished by hand to catch the light. Just some of the dial delights served up at Watches and Wonders Geneva.